SUN SONG 32: A Quiet Finish [WALK OVER]
Iguanas, draw bridges, and Mac's Club Deuce.
June 15th, 2022
Miami, FL
11 milesÂ
Considering this was the final day of this long, long journey, I took a bus from Little Havana to downtown. The Miami bus system is unlike that of New York, as it runs infrequently, but it does show up on time. From there – after a 20 minute ride – I landed downtown and started my day.Â
My host, Ines, has prepared massive breakfasts for me every morning consisting of mangos – which she picks from her backyard – yogurt, toast, avocado, orange juice, and coffee. Today was no exception, although the coffee was much stronger than days before. She knew I needed the extra push.
Anyways, I was downtown and I was already hungry. I stopped at a take-out Greek restaurant and ate an in Bayfront Park. It was blazing hot, perhaps one of the hottest days of this walk, and shaded benchers were few and far between, but I managed.Â
I knew I wanted to officially end this walk down at South Beach and maybe get a beer at world famous Mac’s Club Deuce. I had ambitions of taking the bus from the park, riding up to Little Haiti and walking south, but the journey would have tacked on an extra couple hours. I figured it was best to take it easy and begin the day downtown. Another time, another visit to Miami.
My feet are beginning to really hurt, which is more than understandable after 350+ miles of walking. A large blister has formed on the left side of my heel and continues to grow. Typically I have few issues walking with blisters, but this one in particular makes it difficult to move at times. Â
It’s as if my body knows the walk is ending and has just tolerated the abuse I’ve inflicted upon it over the last 30+ days – that is up until now. Prior to this day, everything has been smooth sailing. The same thing happened during the final day of my walk across Long Island last year. My body just has had enough.
I walked north towards the Venetian Causeway, which connects mainland Miami to the Miami Beach barrier island. The walk between the bridge and downtown is treacherous, as the area is nothing but vacant lots and massive high-rise buildings. There aren’t many businesses within walking distance leaving very limited, if any public restrooms.
I’ve gotten really good at finding places to pee over the last 32 days. When walking cities, you begin to develop a certain sense for businesses that will or will not allow you to use their restroom. This also goes for parks. It’s not something I choose to write about in much depth, but it’s something I deal with everyday.Â
I’ve had moments where I thought I was going to pee my pants, but luckily found places to relieve myself right before things went dire. Sometimes this means going in public, that is, behind a bush, in a park, or beneath a bridge. However, with little places to hide, I had no choice but to pee off the sidewalk. It was an emergency!
I positioned myself as if I was leaning on a tree and staring into the distance with a 1000 yard stare. If anyone saw me, they probably thought I was deep in thought. Those who really paid attention would easily have seen the small puddle forming in front of me. Luckily, nobody saw me. Phew.
I stocked up on as much water as I could before crossing the causeway (had I waited just 20 minutes I would have discovered a coffee shop where I could have pee’d with little worry). I applied extra sunscreen and took a short break. I was anticipating a brutal stretch as the causeway is nearly 2.8 miles and spans the Biscayne Bay. I figured there would be little, if any shade.
The causeway wasn’t so bad. It passes through a series of tiny man made islands which are filled with extremely expensive homes and lend themselves to plenty of palms and shade. I saw iguanas posted up on the rocks and bathing in the sun. I’m so unfamiliar with these creatures, especially in the wild. I stopped to take their photo and stare at them, but my presence scared them. Each one froze up, bobbed its head a few times, and scampered across the rocks and disappeared.
You can see the entire Miami skyline from the causeway. I set up my tripod and shot a video of the boats moving through the water. In the distance was another bridge, which supported semi heavy truck traffic.Â
Suddenly, a bell started ringing.
A large boat was trying to pass beneath the causeway and the draw bridge began lifting into the sky. I didn’t realize it at first as I was so focused on taking my video, but I was actually standing on the edge of bridge. A man sitting in the bridge tower frantically waved at me and urged me to get off. I scampered away – tripod and camera in hand – just like those wild iguanas I saw moments ago. Safe and sound.
It took me over an hour to cross the causeway, but I was officially in Miami Beach proper. Sensing the end was coming soon, I stopped for an ice cream cone. It melted instantaneously.
I followed Alton Road, the main thoroughfare running on the western side of the island, continued to the southern tip and eventually met the beach at South Fifth Street. I had no intentions of hopping in the water, as I’m really not much of a beach person, but the temptation was too strong.Â
I still find novelty swimming in salt water, especially the water of Southern Florida. You can hop right in. It’s incredibly warm and feels like you’re soaking in a warm bath.
I’ve said it before, and I’ll continue saying it again: there is no better way to end a walk than at the feet of a body of water.
The beach was packed, but it wasn’t a nuisance. I privately celebrated the end of this long, long walk as I was submerged by crashing waves. I swam around for way too long and waited until the increasing tide almost reached my backpack sitting on the beach.
I wanted to snap photos of the beautiful Art Deco buildings that run along Collins Avenue, but the sun was starting to set. I was covered in sand, soaked head to toe in water. It was time for a beer.
I officially ended this walk at Mac’s Club Deuce. The bar is the oldest in Miami and is exactly as you’d imagine an old dive bar would be on South Beach. The interior is cavernous, Van Halen plays over the speakers, neon lights run along the perimeter of the ceiling, and you can smoke inside (although I do not smoke).Â
And just like that – from Boston to Miami – I quietly ended the walk.Â
Big thanks for following along and taking part in this journey. It’s been an incredible ride and I’m so grateful for your support and encouraging notes. I’m back to Brooklyn tomorrow, but I’ll send one last newsletter before calling Sun Song a wrap. In a couple weeks I’ll also send out a post-walk recap with thoughts and reflections in my other newsletter, Pedestrian. Stay tuned.
Time to hit the beach,
Alex
Damn. I can’t wait for the next series of walk letters.
Love the life guard stand.