SUN SONG 23: Step by Step
Spanish moss, Chicago hotdogs, and doing laundry.
June 6th, 2022
Savannah, GA
14.16 miles
These damn mosquitos!
Took a shower yesterday morning only to discover bites all up and down my legs. It’s much cooler walking in the evening, but If you venture out too long after sun falls, you’re bound to get eaten alive. Bug spray wasn’t at the top of my list prior to leaving New York City, but you live and you learn. This walk has been one long 30 day learning experience.
Welcome to Savannah, Georgia. Population 147,780. The smallest city of this long, long walk.
It rained all morning. Instead of walking, I held out as long as I could and waited for it to pass. I sat on the porch drinking coffee and listened to the train horns from the nearby train yard. Birds sang songs, unfamiliar to my ears, from the trees behind the house. Eventually, I got tired of waiting around, zipped up my rain coat, and started walking downtown.
I didn’t get far before realizing I was completely turned around. I figured I was going the right direction, but soon learned I was headed the wrong way. I don’t know about you, but I have some semblance of a natural compass, even in the most unfamiliar settings, and to be so mixed up had me shaken.
Savannah is unlike most cities I have walked. Instead of a centrally located downtown area where the rest of the city sprouts from, Savannah’s downtown is located on the far northern edge of city limits, and ends at the Savannah River. On the other side is South Carolina. The rest of the city is on the south and west sides of downtown. I’m not sure why, but when I walk here, I’m really disoriented, only to get my bearings midway through the day.
As expected, Savannah is really walkable. I had no issues getting around yesterday, save for the occasional busy intersection without any crosswalks or pedestrian signals. It feels that you can get around fairly quickly on foot. It felt like I covered a lot of ground, only to look at my phone and discover I’d walked just 7 miles. I really like walking in these types of cities, and as a friend described, Savannah is like a warmer version of Providence, Rhode Island.
Architecturally, it’s beautiful here. The large homes surrounding nearby Forsyth Park are defined by wrought iron fencing, manicured landscapes and massive oak trees covered with Spanish moss. The streets are lined with irregular cobblestones and the sidewalks are made of bricks. People compare Charleston to Savannah, but I really see no direct resemblance (Savannah is much nicer in my opinion). The driver who picked me up from the train station on Sunday was correct. This city really does feel like New Orleans (I was surprised to learn you can drink on the sidewalks), but with an old western sensibility. It’s a romantic city, one of Southern decadence, but in other words…Savannah is a vibe.
I suppose what leads people to believe Savannah and Charleston are very similar is that they’re both filled with some of the oldest buildings in the United States, historically were key cities in the Atlantic slave trade, and presently boast a healthy amount of tourist activity, (although Savannah is not nearly filled with visitors as Charleston…thankfully).
It gets incredibly hot and humid here, although I’m told I’m in the eye of the storm. June isn’t the greatest time to walk around during the middle of the day (best saved for the early morning or late afternoon), but just around the corner is July, August and September, which are considered the most unbearable months to visit Savannah.
Downtown contains most of the oldest buildings, which lends itself as the focal point of tourist activity. White trolley buses full of tourists buzz up and down the street. For a small city, downtown Savannah is nothing like that of Richmond or Des Moines. Instead of high rise apartment buildings or skyscrapers, it’s just multi-story brick buildings. This place feels like one big ol’ small town (in the best possible way).
I walked along River Street, which could be described as Savannah’s Bourbon Street, and rus along the Savannah River. Across the river is a massive convention center and further up is a shipping terminal with docked freight vessels. The city is slightly inland, but just 20 miles (maybe even less) from the ocean.
For a cool Monday afternoon, River Street was pretty busy with folks trying to buy souvenirs or get a bite to eat. I noticed most shops were closed while walking down from my Airbnb, but down here it was in full swing. Forget trying to get a table at any of the restaurants, they were completely booked with long waits.
I was so hungry – my small breakfast wasn’t nearly enough to carry me through the afternoon. Out of desperation, I grabbed – of all things – a Chicago hotdog from a nearby stand, which was ready in seconds. Having lived in the Windy City for a handful of years, I’ve had my share of Chicago dogs, and Savannah’s rendition reminded me of those served at Wrigley Field.
From there, I turned around and walked up to Forsyth Park, which is the crown jewel of the city. I’ve noticed during my short time walking around is that there is no shortage of parks here. It makes for a nice rhythm. Every few miles I could easily find a park or some green space to sit down and take a needed rest.
Forsyth is the city’s largest park. In the middle is a fountain (as seen in the movie Forest Gump). I read online that it was created by Janes, Beebe & Company in Bronx County, NY – the same iron foundry which created iron works for the U.S. Capitol dome and railings for the Brooklyn Bridge.
I loved walking the area south of Forsyth Park. It’s not as ornate as the historic homes near the vicinity of the park, but they do possess a certain unique character specific to Savannah (I’m not sure what the neighborhoods are called. Google Maps labels them “Metropolitan” and “Thomas Square). Many homes are Queen Anne (somewhat like West Philadelphia) or Craftsman style.
There isn’t any sense of homogeneity as seen in the rowhomes of Brooklyn, Baltimore, or Boston. Instead the neighborhoods are filled with a hodgepodge of homes in different sizes, colors, and styles. There’s a good mix of people, shops, bars, and restaurants. I’m sure the area has faced bouts of gentrification over the last decade, as many neighborhoods have, but it doesn’t feel overly developed or commercialized yet.
Like pretty much all the southern cities I’ve walked on this trip, most folks passing by will give you a nod, a smile, or hello. Those with dogs often stop and let you pet, which spurs short conversation.
I pivoted east and followed Victory Drive for a little while and made my way through Baldwin Park. It’s a nicer area and feels a bit more secluded and affluent than most of the neighborhoods I walked through during the day. A woman stopped me after taking a photo outside her house and said it was the most “restricted” neighborhood in all of Savannah (we were discussing the implications of Airbnb in the area). I’m not entirely sure what that meant, but didn’t bother imploring further. I’m sure this area doesn’t get many, if any, out of town strangers walking around just to experience the neighborhood.
Covered a decent amount of ground yesterday and I’ve plenty of spots I’m going to visit this afternoon as most of my stops were closed (it’s common for places of business to close on Sundays and Mondays down here). A good portion of my day was also dedicated to maintenance. I’m completely out of food and in dire need of rations. Before calling it a day, I stopped at a Kroger.
As I’ve mentioned before, this walk is like a retreat, but taking place on the sidewalks and parks. For as much time I spend among places and people, I still feel in my own world. Going to a grocery store to get food only reminds me of how removed I am from day-to-day living at the moment. Most people were getting off of work, while I was just in the middle of a long walk. This isn’t vacation, and in a sense, I’m here for work too. There’s a certain headspace I’m occupying throughout my trip. I’m constantly evaluating, thinking, wondering, and taking photos. I’ve nowhere else to be than walking the streets and letting curiosity guide me. Returning to New York City after 30+ days of walking is going to feel so unusual.
I did my laundry last night too. There’s no functioning washer here, so I did it in the sink. I enjoy these maintenance activities, like sweeping the floor or doing dishes. It’s a form of meditation in that it brings you back down to Earth.
There’s been a certain level of intensity to this journey, even though it’s not as physically rigorous as many of my other walks, and it felt good to only focus on wringing out my clothes and hanging them up to dry.
I have episodes where I leave the present moment and get caught up thinking about what's next in Orlando and Miami, what I want to write about and photograph, or even all that I’ve walked over the last few weeks. What I suppose I’m trying to say here is that my laundry – of all things – reminded me not to think about it. Just take it day by day. Step by step. Everyday is a new walk.
More on Savannah tomorrow,
–Alex
Love the one with the boat.