SUN SONG 17: 95º and Sunny
Long sleeves, a free beer, and the cost of war.
May 30th, 2022
Richmond, VA
14.13 miles
Richmond is one of those, “hey, how ya doin’?” kinda towns. It’s the kinda place where I'd be willing to bet $100 you’d get a nod, wave or quick hello while walking down Main Street.
I wasn’t anticipating the warmth (nor the blazing heat, but that’s another story) and was understandably caught off guard. You see, having lived in New York City for several years now, I’m accustomed to people keeping to themselves (although I’d argue New Yorkers are some of the nicest people you’ll meet. It’s just they have places to be and no time for small talk). So, did I have sunscreen all over my face? Was my fly down? No, no, with a humble population of 229, 233 – you betcha – Richmond is just a friendly little city.
After having some biscuits and coffee from a shop housed in an old firehouse, I went Downtown, squeezing out every bit of shade I could to prevent dehydration. I busted out the long sleeves today, which might sound counterintuitive, but I really wanted to protect my skin from the sun. I’ve been pretty good about avoiding sunburn throughout this trip, but there’s only so much sunscreen can prevent. Better safe than sorry.
Richmond isn’t nearly as dense as that of Philadelphia or Washington, D.C. It’s a little more spread out than most cities I’ve visited, although still very walkable. Given the small population, downtown felt like a ghost town—even in the middle of the day. Many shops were closed or available for rent. Perhaps it was the heat or that workers were on extended holiday given Memorial Day was the day before.
I wove my way downtown, instead of barreling through to the next neighborhood, slowly walking up to Broad and then all the way to Main. It’s so refreshing to be here. While there are pockets of development, the occasional new build, and a parking garage or two, Richmond feels like it hasn’t changed significantly – architecturally – over the years. No city was safe from the wrecking ball during the 20th century, but Richmond seems to have done a good job of preserving its old buildings. This is likely due to its historical significance, which is documented by black and silver didactic markers placed on nearly every block.
I continued weaving for six or seven blocks until reaching Virginia Commonwealth University, where I took a break in the park and chugged the rest of my 50L water bottle. I likely drank my weight in water today, and then some. As I’ve mentioned, it’s incredibly hot out, and there’s more scorching weather on the way. I’ve no intention of pulling 18 mile days while I’m here, (hey, you never know) but by no means will it prevent me from walking this lovely city, even if I have to take it slow.
I spent the remainder of my afternoon walking around the Hollywood Cemetery, which is a massive, sprawling greenspace home to the resting place of two Presidents: James Monroe and John Tyler, as well as the only Confederate President, Jefferson Davis.
Richmond was the capital of the Confederacy during the American Civil War, thus Hollywood Cemetery is home to the resting place of 28 Confederate generals. A 90ft high granite pyramid was built in 1869 to pay tribute to the Confederate enlisted men buried in the cemetery.
I understand the Confederacy can be a polarizing subject among some Americans, especially in recent years. Many Confederate monuments across the United States have been removed, most notably the Robert E. Lee Monument here in Richmond in response to the George Floyd protests during the summer of 2020. However, seeing such a concentration of graves is undoubtedly impactful and a reminder of the brutality of war—no matter whose side you’re on. There are 18,000 Confederate soldiers buried here, just a sliver of those who died throughout the duration of the Civil war.
I wanted to walk all the way to Carytown on the western end of town before heading back to my stay in Church Hill, but decided to save it for today’s walk. Given this heat, I didn’t want to push it, instead stopping at Bamboo Cafe for dinner.
The bar, located in the Fan District (many residents insist it gets its name due to the way the streets spread out like spokes) has been in operation since the 1970’s and likely hasn’t been updated since. Paint is peeling off the walls and ceiling, while the wood paneling around the perimeter has a dark, oily hue about it. Christmas lights are placed throughout alongside old pictures. This is one of those “if these walls could talk” kinda places. The bar boasts its share of young and old clientele. Everyone seems to know each other and waves every time someone stops inside.
Being here is likely the coziest I’ve felt the entire trip. The bartender gave me a free beer after a brief conversation. I ordered a grilled hot dog, which came with a pickle and side of potato salad for a mere 7 bucks.
I’m not one to drink during these walks, but all rules are meant to be broken—in moderation. I’ve found stopping for a drink at the bar is a great way to meet people and learn a little more about the city than I would walking around. I want to hear what residents have to say, and in Richmond there’s lots to talk about. I stayed much longer than I likely should have.
I walked back to Church Hill just before nightfall. Fireflies followed me home. I passed out shortly after arriving. This heat has its way of taking everything you have. I was zonked.
I’ve got a long one planned today. Let’s hope I can hold up. There’s a lot to see.
Much more on Richmond tomorrow,
–Alex
Love the rug cleaning one.
I visit Richmond pretty often (3ish times a year) and love it very much. More old growth trees than any other city in america, and more wrought iron fencing too. Lamplighter coffee is good in Carytown and if you want pizza, 8 1/2 is great. Loving these write-ups my friend. Take care