SUN SONG 06: Pawtucket, Pawtucket
Friend's Market, selling time, take my picture.
May 20th, 2022
Providence, RI
15.24 miles
Currently barreling through Rhode Island on a train bound for Philadelphia. I overslept this morning and busted my chops, just making the train in time. I’ve got 5 hours ahead of me before arriving in Philadelphia later this afternoon. It’s supposed to be a scorcher today – the hottest day of this trip so far – with a high of 96° degrees. Talk about a sun song.
Yesterday I walked all the way to Pawtucket, a town just outside of Providence. It’s not nearly as far as it might sound. Just 4.5 miles from my Airbnb, it took about an hour and a half to get there.
Can I sell you something?
I’m inside of Friends Market in Fox Point, a Portuguese-American shop run by Manuel Pedroso, who just celebrated his 102nd birthday. Sitting behind a temporary plexiglass screen, as to prevent the transmission of Covid, his eyes followed me while I walked the aisles of his store.
For over 65 years, Manuel has sold Portuguese goods, from ceramics, soaps, sardines, olive oil, and old magazines, making his shop the oldest of its kind in Rhode Island.
Do you have sunscreen?
I was in desperate need of sunscreen as I’d misplaced mine. At some point in Boston, I think, it vanished into the depths of my pack and into the ether. Gone.
I don't know why I even bothered to ask. By the looks of his store, it was clear that was not the kind of goods he was selling. I felt a bit invasive as I had no real intention of buying anything. I got the sense Manuel was one of those shopkeepers who didn’t take kindly to browsers. He’s running a business after all and even at 102 years old, a businessman has to make his money.
I wove up and down the aisles one last time, taking photos and examining his wares. Behind the register were photos of Manuel at various stages in his life: birth, teenage years, marriage, middle age, the golden years and beyond. Across from him, was a display that read: HAPPY 102 BIRTHDAY, VôVô!
I picked up a little ceramic Portuguese rooster, even though I don’t have much room for extra items, and brought it to the counter. The purchase was a gesture of appreciation.
15 dollars.
I reached into my pocket to grab my wallet, but much like my sunscreen, all my bills had vanished. I only had a credit card. This definitely wasn’t the place to accept anything other than cash—I knew it. Manuel looked at me with a stern face.
Cash only.
I was out of luck. Sorry, Manuel. I’ll be back soon.
Later, I’m walking up Hope Street, which runs adjacent to Brown University. Suddenly I hear a familiar tune.
… And I would walk 500 miles
And I would roll 500 more
Just to be the man who rolled a thousand miles
To fall down at your door…
Is this some kind of joke? As I kept walking, the music kept getting louder and louder. It was as if someone was waiting for my arrival.
Eventually I stumbled upon two shirtless boys standing on the large awning on an old house. One wore a speedo. It felt like a classic college scene, the kind of thing you’d see in a movie.
Take my picture!
I already had my camera ready in anticipation. Sometimes you just know when something memorable is about to happen.
What are you doing?
I’m walking 10 cities over 30 days.
No shit?
Yeah, is this a frat?
…kinda. It’s a fun place!
Had I not brought my camera, I’m certain this interaction would not have happened. It seems as though my camera is a conversation piece. I get asked for photos at least once a day, and when I put my camera to my face, most insist they were only joking.
These boys weren’t joking.
The stretch between Brown University and Pawtucket, given that you’re following Hope Street, is beautiful. Old, manicured homes line both sides of the street. Occasionally I’d pass through little pockets of businesses or an observatory, such as the old Ladd Observatory, which opened in 1891.
The observatory, owned by Brown University and open to the public during the night, not only monitored the sun and the stars, but sold time signals at one point.
In short (and I mean really short, it’s a much more complex series of actions than I describe), the observatory was able to watch stars with a meridian circle instrument and make observations as the star crossed the meridian. This data was then sent to calibrate a pendulum clock, calculations were made by astronomers, and then standard local time was determined.
From there, a clock keeping standard time, transmitted the time signals. The observatory then sold these signals to the Rhode Island Electric Protective (a local fire and burglar alarm firm), who redistributed them to their customers including watch makers.
I read the university made $200 from these time signals back in 1906, which is about $6000 nowadays.
I got to Pawtucket much later than anticipated. With all the starting and stopping – especially when taking photos or talking with strangers – walking a couple miles can take two or three times longer than it should.
Pawtucket is home to the Slater Mill, and was once an important center of textile manufacturing. I read it had its heyday in the 1920’s, but nowadays most of the textile industry has moved out. Like most post-industrial towns, there’s been a push to revitalize the community.
Many historical buildings have been demolished throughout the years, but fortunately, many were spared by the wrecking ball. The Pawtucket/Central Falls train station sits just north of town and has been out of service since 1959, although the tracks beneath it are still operating. There are plans to reopen that station sometime this year, but it looks like there’s a long way to go on construction.
In a sense, Pawtucket feels like another distant neighborhood of Providence, although a local firmly corrected me when I accidentally mentioned I was still in Providence.
This is Pawtucket, man!
I stopped at Still on Main, an arcade-style shopping center that hosts numerous small businesses, with hopes of finding a cup of coffee. I was greeted by Lamonte Thomas, the owner of Hall of Fame juice bar and What the Teff, a granola company. The coffee shop inside was closed, but Lamonte was more than happy to make me a cup from his brand new Keurig.
We got the best Hawaiian coffee!
While waiting for the coffee, we chatted a bit, and he mentioned he used to play professional basketball in Spain and had quite the basketball career in college.
Man, I had the most points in the NCAA!
Thanks for the coffee and granola, Lamonte. I needed it.
The sun was setting and a thick blanket of clouds covered the sky. It had been so sunny earlier in the day (yes, I did find sunscreen), but now it was about to rain.
This day got away from me, I had plans to make one last round downtown, but sometimes that’s just how it goes. There’s no way I can see it all, even if Providence is so small, in just two and a half days of walking.
Instead I followed along the Seekonk River, cut down Blackstone Boulevard, and was back in Providence once again. The last leg of my journey was so quiet and lush with foliage. I could hear the birds chirping and smell fresh flowers. It’s really starting to feel like summer (especially when your allergies begin flaring up). This part of town is a big change from the hustle bustle of Manhattan. And while I’ll always love that about New York City, Providence has been a nice, welcomed change.
I’m only walking around 8–15 miles a day, but this walk has a certain rigor that leaves me exhausted by nightfall. It’s a good exhaustion, the kind that comes from living a full day
I just arrived in New Haven, Connecticut. Only 3 more hours until Philadelphia. See you when I land.
Until then,
–Alex
I love the fourth one!